Invert Problems and Solutions
Excess Algae
Causes
Excess algae is typically driven by elevated nutrients—especially nitrates and phosphates—from overfeeding, waste buildup, or insufficient filtration. Excessive or prolonged lighting can accelerate growth, particularly when nutrients are already present. Inadequate cleanup crews and poor water flow allow algae to establish and spread, especially in areas where detritus accumulates.
Solution
Control excess algae by reducing nutrient input and improving export through regular maintenance, proper feeding, and effective filtration. Introduce a balanced cleanup crew such as Blue Leg Hermit Crabs, Trochus, and Astraea Snails to continuously graze algae. Increase water flow to prevent buildup in dead spots, and for heavy hair algae outbreaks, a Sea Hare can provide rapid control—just be sure to supplement with nori once the algae is depleted.
Bubble Algae
Causes
Bubble algae (Valonia) is most often driven by elevated nutrients, particularly phosphates and nitrates from overfeeding, waste buildup, or insufficient filtration. It can also spread rapidly when bubbles are accidentally ruptured during removal, releasing spores into the water. Low-flow areas where detritus collects further encourage growth, and a lack of natural predators allows it to establish and expand unchecked.
Solutions
Control bubble algae by addressing both the source and the outbreak. Introduce Emerald Crabs (Mithraculus sculptus) as a natural grazer to help reduce existing algae. Improve nutrient management through careful feeding, regular maintenance, and efficient filtration. Increase water flow to eliminate dead spots where debris accumulates, and when removing algae manually, gently extract entire bubbles without popping them to prevent further spread.
Aiptasia Pests
Causes
Aiptasia often enters reef aquariums as hitchhikers on live rock or coral bases and can quickly spread under nutrient-rich conditions. They reproduce rapidly through both budding and fragmentation, especially when disturbed or damaged. Even small, unseen remnants can regrow into new individuals, making early infestations easy to underestimate. Once established, they can outcompete corals and spread aggressively if not addressed early.
Solutions
Eliminate Aiptasia using natural predators such as Peppermint Shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni), Kukhenthal Shrimp or Berghia Nudibranchs, which specifically target these pests. Avoid manually disturbing or attempting to scrape them off, as this often causes them to multiply and spread further. Consistency is key—allow predators time to work and monitor progress. Maintaining stable water conditions and controlling nutrients will also help limit their ability to expand and re-establish.
Detritus
Causes
Detritus buildup occurs when uneaten food, fish waste, and organic debris accumulate in low-flow areas of the aquarium. Poor circulation and inadequate cleanup crews allow this material to settle into sand beds and rockwork, where it begins to break down. Over time, this decomposition releases nutrients back into the system, contributing to declining water quality and fueling nuisance algae. These “dead spots” often go unnoticed until visible issues begin to appear.
Solutions
Improve water movement to keep debris suspended so it can be removed by filtration and mechanical export. Add natural scavengers such as Nassarius Snails, Serpent Stars, and Fighting Conchs to stir the substrate and consume organic waste. Regular maintenance—like light siphoning during water changes and adjusting flow patterns—helps prevent long-term accumulation. A well-balanced cleanup crew paired with proper flow will keep your system cleaner and more stable over time.
Inverts aren’t just part of the reef—they’re what keep it functioning.
— Dr. Mac, Pacific East Aquaculture
Don’t Forget these Essentials:
General Care for Mixed Reef Tanks
Lighting
Lighting
Aim for moderate, well-distributed lighting that supports both LPS and SPS—enough intensity for growth without overwhelming more light-sensitive species.
Flow
Flow
Water flow should be varied and indirect, creating a gentle, chaotic movement that keeps detritus suspended while allowing fleshy corals to expand naturally.
Feeding
Feeding
Feed lightly but regularly with a mix of fine particulate Live Foods and occasional meaty foods to support overall health without overloading nutrients.
Parameters
Parameters
Most importantly, maintain stable water parameters—temperature 76–80°F, salinity ~1.025, alkalinity 8–9 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, and magnesium 1250–1350 ppm.
A successful mixed reef tank is built on balance and consistency.
Stability, more than perfection, is what drives long-term success in any reef aquarium.
— Dr. Mac, Pacific East Aquaculture
Order FAQs
About Our Facility
Q: Are your corals aquacultured?
A: Yes. Many of our corals are grown in our Maryland Certified & Licensed Coral Aquaculture Facility.
Q: Why choose aquacultured corals?
A: Aquacultured corals are:
- More sustainable
- Better adapted to aquarium life
- Typically hardier than wild specimens
- More sustainable
- Better adapted to aquarium life
- Typically hardier than wild specimens
Q: Who selects and grows your corals?
A: Our corals are grown and curated by Dr. Mac a Board Certified Veterinary Pathologist with decades of hands-on reef experience.
Ordering & Shipping
Q: What does WYSIWYG mean?
A: “What You See Is What You Get.” The exact coral shown in the photo is the one you will receive.
Q: Can I request a specific color or variation?
A: For WYSIWYG items, what’s pictured is what you get. For non-WYSIWYG items, we do our best to match color and size, but natural variation occurs.
Q: Can I combine multiple orders to save on shipping?
A: Yes—contact us before shipping and we’ll consolidate when possible.
Q: How are corals and fish shipped safely?
A: We use insulated boxes, temperature control (heat/cold packs), and overnight delivery to ensure safe arrival.
Q: What days do you ship?
A: Typically Monday–Wednesday to avoid weekend delays.
Q: Do I need to be home for delivery?
A: Yes—someone should be available to receive livestock immediately.
Q: What if my coral or fish arrives dead (DOA)?
A: Contact us within a specified timeframe (e.g., 2 hours) with clear photos, and we will resolve it quickly.
Q: What voids the guarantee?
A: Missed deliveries, improper acclimation, or delays beyond our control.
Live Arrival Guarantee
Q: What if my coral or fish arrives dead (DOA)?
A: Contact us within a specified timeframe (e.g., 2 hours) with clear photos, and we will resolve it quickly.
Q: What voids the guarantee?
A: Missed deliveries, improper acclimation, or delays beyond our control.
Acclimation & First 24 Hours
Q: How do I acclimate new livestock?
A: Float to match temperature, then drip acclimate before placing in tank.
Q: Should I dip corals before adding them?
A: Yes but be careful, coral dips help prevent pests but use caution. Certain corals might benefit from a short quarantine period instead of a dip so as to further stressing them.
Q: Why does my coral look closed or stressed?
A: This is normal after shipping—most corals open within 24–72 hours.
A: Float to match temperature, then drip acclimate before placing in tank.
Q: Should I dip corals before adding them?
A: Yes but be careful, coral dips help prevent pests but use caution. Certain corals might benefit from a short quarantine period instead of a dip so as to further stressing them.
Q: Why does my coral look closed or stressed?
A: This is normal after shipping—most corals open within 24–72 hours.
Aquarium Setup & Compatibility
Q: Where should I place my coral in the tank?
A: Placement depends on the coral type (LPS, SPS, soft). Lighting and flow requirements vary—check each product description.
Q: Can different corals touch each other?
A: Many corals have sweeper tentacles and can sting neighbors. Always allow space.
Q: How fast will my coral grow?
A: Growth depends on species, lighting, water quality, and feeding.
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