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LPS, or Large Polyp Stoney, is a hobbyist term used to describe certain types of coral. These corals generally have very large, distinct fleshy polyp(s) over a hard-calcareous skeleton. All kinds of corals are included in the group, from brains to chalices, hydnophora to caulastrea. These varieties will also lead to a certain amount of variability in care and optimal conditions. However, there are some basic general guidelines that may be applied to most members of the group and will aid in their care.
Special Notes
Many LPS corals have large obvious mouths, and will accept meaty foods like mysis shrimp. For some, this feeding is an optional supplement while other species are unable to sustain themselves long-term solely on the products of photosynthesis and will gradually waste away if not fed.
For especially fleshy LPS, be sure to allow the coral to close before removing from water to prevent damage to the tissue.
Care Level
Generally easy to moderate
Aggressiveness
Most are moderately to highly aggressive. Many LPS have potent stinging tentacles and may produce sweeper tentacles to deliver that sting to their neighbors up to several inches away.
Lighting Requirements
Low to Moderate lighting is generally preferred.
Water Flow
Moderate flow. These corals often have large fleshy polyps and sharp skeletons. Excessive flow can cause tearing.
Tank Placement
Low to Mid tank
Water Quality
Many LPS corals are fairly tolerant of slightly "dirty water".
Keep nitrates at 10-25ppm, and phosphates between 0.1 and 0.5. You can check these levels with Salifert test kits or via ICP testing.
Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium levels are important for skeletal growth.
Specific Gravity: 1.025-1.028, check with calibrated refractometer or glass hydrometer. This higher range of salinity is closer to natural saltwater levels and helps keep elements higher than lower salinity.
Alkalinity 7-8 dKH, check with Salifert kit or Hanna colorimeter
Calcium 425-450, check with Salifert kit or Hanna colorimeter
Magnesium 1250-1350, check with Salifert kit or Hanna colorimeter
Iodine 60-90 ug/l, only accurate test is ICP
Monthly ICP testing is recommended for accurate Iodine level, including other trace elements and metals. Daily alkalinity testing is best, weekly calcium and magnesium testing is adequate. Stable alkalinity is the number one priority! Correct Iodine and other trace elements such as Strontium, Molybdenum, and others are critical for long-term success and excellent coloration of SPS corals.
Dosing should ONLY BE DONE in conjunction with accurate testing. Avoid blind dosing or dosing so-called coral foods or other "miracles" in a bottle.
Euphyllia are a coral Genus name that includes those corals commonly known as Torch, Frogspawn, and Hammer corals. All are common LPS corals that exhibit large, fleshy tentacle heads over skeletons that are normally either branching or wall patterned. They are most easily distinguished from one another by the shape of the tentacles, although some specimens may show mixed characteristics that make an absolute ID tricky.
Euphyllia species are an easy to moderate coral to care for and makes a great first LPS coral for most new hobbyists. Aggressiveness is high for all Euphyllia because they are prone to sweeper tentacle formation and will aggressively sting any near neighbors that they brush against.
Lighting should be moderate as well as water flow. These corals have a sharp skeleton at the base of the polyp and excessive flow can cause tearing. They may also fail to fully expand under high flow conditions. Euphyllia prefers a tank placement at mid-level or higher. Somewhat forgiving of temporary nutrient level lapses. Maintain proper Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium levels for skeletal growth.
Special Notes
Take care to allow the Euphyllia to fully close before moving them to avoid tearing. These corals are somewhat prone to "brown jelly type" bacterial infections if stressed or damaged. Infected heads should be removed immediately to prevent spread of the disease. Proper Iodine level will help prevent these infections and also promote excellent polyp extension. Close examination and observation of newly acquired Euphyllia is essential since Euphyllia eating flatworms are common, these are larger flatworms than the common red flatworms. Manual removal via brushing will easily rid the coral of the flatworm and it's eggs.
The so called 'Chalice' corals are a group of stoney corals such as Echinophyllia, Echinopora, Oxypora, and Mycedium to name a few. These corals can be somewhat challenging to distinguish from one another, but all require similar care. The common name of 'Chalice' comes from their shared tendency to grow in cupping or platting patterns although other growth forms such as encrusting are also seen. They are found in a huge variety of colors, with specimens that display bright contrasts of color between the 'eyes', main body, and sometimes growing edges being the most sought after.
Chalice corals require moderate care but do have an aggressiveness that ranges in the moderate to high range. Some members of this group can be very aggressive towards neighbors and may even produce sweeper tentacles. Others will likely be the losers if they are too closely placed to other corals and can take severe damage from stings. Best to take some care when placing these corals and leave plenty of room for growth.
Lighting Requirements are typically moderate to low, coloration can change with different intensity, so it is best to watch the coral carefully after placement to determine the best spot for it.
Water flow should be keep in the moderate range and you should provide sufficient flow to prevent detritus from settling on the surface of these corals.
Chalices are relatively forgiving of water quality and nutrient levels but maintain proper Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium level for skeletal growth. Iodine level is important to prevent bacterial infections.
Within the LPS group are the so-called Brain corals, which can then be further divided into 'Closed Brains', which normally have a more compact appearance, and 'Open Brains' which tend to expand more and are often fleshier.
Brain corals are very suited to fragging and are quite popular with hobbyists for this very reason. They have a multitude of colors and growth characteristic some being mostly encrusting.
Brain corals have a moderate care level, some can be more challenging than others and their aggressiveness ranges from moderate to high. Brain corals may produce stinging tentacles to attack neighbors, but can also be damaged by more aggressive specimens than themselves.
Lighting Requirements range from low to moderate. Some specimens can be prone to bleaching under excess, or sometimes just new, lighting conditions. Acclimate carefully for best results.
They usually prefer a water flow that is more moderate. Excessive flow may prevent these corals from fully expanding. These corals also possess sharp skeletons beneath their tissue, and strong flow may cause the delicate tissue to be torn by the skeleton. This is also the reason these corals should always be allowed to close fully before removing them from water.
This is an example of a closed brain coral, Favites, often referred to as War Coral
Open Brains usually include such corals as Trachyphyllia, Wellsophyllia, and Lobophyllia, at this date the genus Wellsophyllia has been eliminated but it is still used in the industry for identification. Reds and greens are the most common colors, though others are possible as are interesting contrasting colors. These corals are generally unsuited to fragging, except for some branching Lobophyllia specimens.
Lighting requirements range from low to moderate. Some specimens can be prone to bleaching under excess, or sometimes just new, lighting conditions. Acclimate carefully for best results.
They usually prefer a water flow that is more moderate. Excessive flow may prevent these corals from fully expanding. These corals also possess sharp skeletons beneath their tissue, and strong flow may cause the delicate tissue to be torn by the skeleton. This is also the reason these corals should always be allowed to close fully before removing them from water.
Many open brains including Wellsophyllia and Trachyphyllia are naturally occurring on the substrate and should be placed on the bottom assuming there are no aggressively sand sifting tank mates that are likely to bury them. Others like the Lobophyllia can be placed up in the rockwork if preferred. These corals are not usually especially demanding of ultra clean water, although they do rely on balanced Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium for skeletal growth.
Special Notes
The open brains are a very hardy group of corals. While they are photosynthetic, most will produce feeder tentacles, often at night. Periodic feedings with meaty foods such as mysis or small bits of krill should be provided to maintain optimal health.
Pectinia
Pectinia are a unique group of LPS corals that have several species with some having bizarre spiked growth patterns. They are easy to keep and require low-moderate lighting and flow. They do not need supplemental feeding and are generally not aggressive. They can be very brightly colored with bright green, red, pink, and other colors. These are highly prized corals due to their unusual growth form and coloration.
Cyphastrea are mostly encrusting corals although some do branch as well.
They are very easy to keep, requiring moderate lighting and flow and they occur in a wide variety of colors with contrasting polyp colors.
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