Don't Forget These Essentials
General Care for Mixed Reef Tanks
Lighting
Lighting
Aim for moderate, well-distributed lighting that supports both LPS and SPS—enough intensity for growth without overwhelming more light-sensitive species.
Flow
Flow
Water flow should be varied and indirect, creating a gentle, chaotic movement that keeps detritus suspended while allowing fleshy corals to expand naturally.
Feeding
Feeding
Feed lightly but regularly with a mix of fine particulate Live Foods and occasional meaty foods to support overall health without overloading nutrients.
Parameters
Parameters
Most importantly, maintain stable water parameters—temperature 76–80°F, salinity ~1.025, alkalinity 8–9 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, and magnesium 1250–1350 ppm.
A successful mixed reef tank is built on balance and consistency.
Stability, more than perfection, is what drives long-term success in any reef aquarium.
— Dr. Mac, Pacific East Aquaculture
Guide to Matching Lighting to Your Coral Goals
Before choosing a reef aquarium light, decide what type of corals you want to keep. A soft coral aquarium does not need the same intensity as an SPS-dominated reef, and a mixed reef requires careful coral placement so each animal receives appropriate light.
Soft Corals
Low to Moderate 50-150 PAR
Soft corals are generally the most forgiving corals when it comes to reef aquarium lighting, making them an excellent choice for beginners and for lower-light areas of the aquarium. Dr. Mac’s guidance is that many soft corals are more adaptable than more light-demanding stony corals, especially when they are given stable conditions and are not moved abruptly from one lighting environment to another.
In most reef aquariums, soft corals are best placed in the lower to middle areas of the tank. Mushrooms, leathers, green star polyps, and many zoanthids often do well away from the strongest light directly under the fixture. These corals can usually tolerate moderate light, but they often do not need the intense lighting required by SPS corals.
Soft corals are also useful for filling shaded zones, side areas, and lower rockwork where higher-light corals may not thrive. In aquariums with strong LED fixtures, the outer edges of the light spread can be excellent areas for soft corals. This allows the aquascape to be used naturally, with brighter areas reserved for corals that demand more light.
Recommended approach:
- Use moderate LED intensity
- Avoid placing soft corals directly under intense light at first
- Start around 50–150 PAR depending on species
- Watch for stretching, fading, shrinking, or bleaching
When placing new soft corals, start them in a moderate or slightly shaded location and watch how they respond. If they stretch upward, lose color, or appear dull, they may need slightly more light. If they shrink, fade, or remain closed, they may be receiving too much light or too much direct flow. As with all corals, gradual adjustment is safer than sudden changes.
LPS
Low to Moderate 75-150 PAR
LPS corals generally prefer moderate lighting and careful placement. While many LPS corals are more adaptable than SPS corals, they can still be sensitive to sudden increases in light intensity. Dr. Mac’s recommendations emphasize matching lighting to the type of coral being kept rather than assuming all corals should be placed under the brightest part of the fixture.
Recommended approach:
- Place most LPS in lower to middle areas of the tank
- Aim for approximately 75–150 PAR as a starting point
- Increase light slowly if needed
- Pair lighting with appropriate water flow
Most LPS corals are best started in the lower to middle areas of the aquarium. Hammer corals, torch corals, frogspawn, acans, favias, brain corals, chalices, and similar corals often expand better when they receive steady, moderate light rather than harsh direct intensity. Their fleshy tissue can be damaged when they are placed too high too quickly, especially under powerful LED lighting.
Placement should also take the coral’s shape into account. Branching LPS corals can often be placed on mid-level rockwork where they receive useful light without being directly blasted from above. Fleshy LPS corals such as acans, scolymia, open brains, and many chalices are often better suited to the sandbed, lower shelves, or protected ledges.
The best guide is the coral’s response. Healthy LPS corals should show good tissue expansion, stable coloration, and normal feeding response. If an LPS coral becomes pale, withdrawn, or fails to expand, it may be getting too much light. If it darkens, stretches, or loses brightness over time, it may need a brighter location. Move LPS corals slowly and allow time for adjustment.
Mixed Reef
Moderate 150-250 PAR
Mixed reef aquariums require the most thoughtful lighting plan because soft corals, LPS corals, and SPS corals often have very different lighting needs. Dr. Mac’s guidance is that lighting should always be selected and adjusted based on the animals you want to keep. In a mixed reef, the goal is not to create one uniform light level everywhere, but to create different zones for different corals.
The upper rockwork should generally be reserved for the corals that need the strongest and most stable lighting. SPS corals and other higher-light species usually belong in these brighter zones. The lower rockwork, sandbed, shaded areas, and outer edges of the tank can then be used for soft corals, LPS corals, and lower-light animals.
The aquascape becomes part of the lighting strategy. Tall rock structures, overhangs, shelves, and open spaces can all be used to create useful placement options. This allows stronger-light corals to receive more direct light while more sensitive corals are protected from excessive intensity. Planning this early helps prevent problems as corals grow and begin to shade one another.
Mixed reefs also benefit from stability. Avoid constantly changing light intensity, spectrum, and photoperiod. Once corals are placed properly and responding well, consistency is more valuable than frequent adjustment. When changes are needed, make them slowly so each coral has time to adapt.
SPS
Moderate to High 200-350 PAR
SPS corals, especially Acropora and other small-polyp stony corals, are typically the most demanding corals when it comes to reef aquarium lighting. Dr. Mac notes that SPS corals are generally less adaptable to changing lighting conditions than soft corals and many LPS corals. For that reason, SPS placement should be planned carefully and adjusted gradually.
In most reef aquariums, SPS corals should be placed in the upper areas of the rockwork where light is strongest, most stable, and least obstructed. These corals usually perform best when they receive consistent light from above and are not shaded by other colonies. Good placement is especially important with branching SPS corals, because they can shade their own bases as they grow.
SPS corals also need room to grow into the light. A small frag may look properly placed at first, but as it becomes a colony, it can block light from reaching lower branches or nearby corals. Leave space around SPS corals and avoid crowding them too closely under one narrow light source. Strong lighting is helpful, but even coverage is just as important.
SPS corals, especially Acropora, usually require stronger lighting, stable water chemistry, and strong water movement. Lighting alone will not make SPS thrive, but insufficient or unstable lighting can limit growth and coloration.
Recommended approach:
- Use strong, high-quality LED, T5, metal halide, or hybrid lighting
- Aim for roughly 200–350 PAR for many SPS corals
- Keep the schedule stable
- Acclimate new SPS slowly
- Avoid shadowing by planning coral placement and growth patterns
New SPS corals should not be placed immediately into the brightest part of the aquarium unless they are already acclimated to similar conditions. Start them slightly lower or off to the side of the most intense light zone, then move them gradually if needed. Even high-light corals can bleach or become stressed when exposed to sudden increases in intensity. Stable lighting, careful placement, and slow acclimation are the keys to long-term SPS success.
“These are starting points, not strict rules. Corals can adapt to different lighting conditions when changes are made slowly. Sudden increases in intensity can cause bleaching, tissue stress, or poor polyp extension..”
— Dr. Mac, Pacific East Aquaculture
Order FAQs
About Our Facility
Q: Are your corals aquacultured?
A: Yes. Many of our corals are grown in our Maryland Certified & Licensed Coral Aquaculture Facility.
Q: Why choose aquacultured corals?
A: Aquacultured corals are:
- More sustainable
- Better adapted to aquarium life
- Typically hardier than wild specimens
- More sustainable
- Better adapted to aquarium life
- Typically hardier than wild specimens
Q: Who selects and grows your corals?
A: Our corals are grown and curated by Dr. Mac a Board Certified Veterinary Pathologist with decades of hands-on reef experience.
Ordering & Shipping
Q: What does WYSIWYG mean?
A: “What You See Is What You Get.” The exact coral shown in the photo is the one you will receive.
Q: Can I request a specific color or variation?
A: For WYSIWYG items, what’s pictured is what you get. For non-WYSIWYG items, we do our best to match color and size, but natural variation occurs.
Q: Can I combine multiple orders to save on shipping?
A: Yes—contact us before shipping and we’ll consolidate when possible.
Q: How are corals and fish shipped safely?
A: We use insulated boxes, temperature control (heat/cold packs), and overnight delivery to ensure safe arrival.
Q: What days do you ship?
A: Typically Monday–Wednesday to avoid weekend delays.
Q: Do I need to be home for delivery?
A: Yes—someone should be available to receive livestock immediately.
Q: What if my coral or fish arrives dead (DOA)?
A: Contact us within a specified timeframe (e.g., 2 hours) with clear photos, and we will resolve it quickly.
Q: What voids the guarantee?
A: Missed deliveries, improper acclimation, or delays beyond our control.
Live Arrival Guarantee
Q: What if my coral or fish arrives dead (DOA)?
A: Contact us within a specified timeframe (e.g., 2 hours) with clear photos, and we will resolve it quickly.
Q: What voids the guarantee?
A: Missed deliveries, improper acclimation, or delays beyond our control.
Acclimation & First 24 Hours
Q: How do I acclimate new livestock?
A: Float to match temperature, then drip acclimate before placing in tank.
Q: Should I dip corals before adding them?
A: Yes but be careful, coral dips help prevent pests but use caution. Certain corals might benefit from a short quarantine period instead of a dip so as to further stressing them.
Q: Why does my coral look closed or stressed?
A: This is normal after shipping—most corals open within 24–72 hours.
A: Float to match temperature, then drip acclimate before placing in tank.
Q: Should I dip corals before adding them?
A: Yes but be careful, coral dips help prevent pests but use caution. Certain corals might benefit from a short quarantine period instead of a dip so as to further stressing them.
Q: Why does my coral look closed or stressed?
A: This is normal after shipping—most corals open within 24–72 hours.
Aquarium Setup & Compatibility
Q: Where should I place my coral in the tank?
A: Placement depends on the coral type (LPS, SPS, soft). Lighting and flow requirements vary—check each product description.
Q: Can different corals touch each other?
A: Many corals have sweeper tentacles and can sting neighbors. Always allow space.
Q: How fast will my coral grow?
A: Growth depends on species, lighting, water quality, and feeding.
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